> For the complete documentation index, see [llms.txt](https://monasheng.gitbook.io/zerotohero/llms.txt). Markdown versions of documentation pages are available by appending `.md` to page URLs; this page is available as [Markdown](https://monasheng.gitbook.io/zerotohero/3d-printing-zero-to-hero/advanced-skills/advanced-joinery/glueing-and-plastic-welding.md).

# Glueing and Plastic Welding

{% embed url="<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Ojhk1da7SQ>" %}

{% hint style="info" %}
:man\_mage: **Important:** building up complex assemblies by joining 3D prints together can be an effective tool to decouple the trade-offs associated with [Supports](/zerotohero/3d-printing-zero-to-hero/advanced-skills/advanced-slicing/supports.md), [Part Orientation](/zerotohero/3d-printing-zero-to-hero/advanced-skills/advanced-slicing/part-orientation.md), and [Layer Height](/zerotohero/3d-printing-zero-to-hero/advanced-skills/advanced-slicing/layer-height.md).
{% endhint %}

## Adhesives

The ordinary rules for glueing surfaces apply when dealing with 3D prints:

1. ensure as much contact area as possible for your joint,
2. carefully clean the joint, and,
3. consider scuffing mating surfaces to increase the surface area upon which the glue will act.

### Super Glue (Crazy Glue/Cyanoacrylate)

Cheap, dollar-store super glue is a quick, easy, and reasonably strong way to attach prints - probably a 7/10 for bond strength. Be careful not to get it on your fingers though, and note that it can set *very* quickly - be sure to dry-run aligning and pressing your parts together before committing.

Because it is so thin, and doesn't expand like other glues, super glue requires nice, flat surfaces for a good bond. Be careful trying to glue warped parts.

{% embed url="<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dGE509zjf7E>" %}

### Polyurethane

PU glues, like *gorilla glue* are extremely common in the 3D printing community. While slightly more prep is required, the resulting bond is typically stronger than super glue (perhaps an 8/10), and the product expands slightly upon setting, helping to fill gaps/compensate for slightly misaligned surfaces.

PU glues also handle dissimilar materials well, and are a good choice for bonding your print to wood/metal/etc.

{% embed url="<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1i9pjTYGcYU>" %}

### 2-Part Epoxy

Requiring the most prep, epoxies also provide the highest-strength bond. In fact, a well-prepared epoxy bond will likely fail after the plastic of your print. Like PU glues, epoxies can help fill gaps/compensate for misaligned surfaces due to their slightly more viscous nature.

Be careful working with these though, as the individual ingredients in epoxy can be quite toxic - use gloves and handle with care!

{% embed url="<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XK5PV2cpGME>" %}

## Plastic Welding

Where your prints have little available surface area for glueing, plastic welding using a soldering iron or wood-burning tool be can awfully effective!

Consider using an old/damaged tip on your iron though as the process is quite destructive. If you don't have an old tip, that's OK, use a new one - it will be old/damaged when you're done!

{% embed url="<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W_UHmlmQpuw>" %}